Nearshore Wave Propagation
The research project "Generation of Extreme Transient Waves in Experimental Models" (ExTraWaG) aims to accurately generate target transient wave profile at a pre-defined position in the wave flume (transfer point) under shallow water conditions. For this purpose, the KdV-based nonlinear Fourier transform (KdV-NLFT) is introduced as a continuative wave analysis method and is applied to investigate the nonlinear spectral character of experimental wave data. Furthermore, the method is applied to generate transient nonlinear waves at specific locations in the wave flume, considering the nonlinear transformation and interactions of the propagating waves. Results of the project will be presented.