Nearshore Wave Transformation
Oral
Zhong Peng, PhD
Principal Oceanographer
Fugro GB Marine Ltd.
2-D spectrum at offshore boundaries of nearshore models often deviate from the true energy. Engineer practice is to scale up the spectrum by applying a constant factor. This method ignores the spectrum evolutions, and assume fixed spectrum shape during calibration. This study is to calibrate the 2-D spectrum at offshore locations using so-called ‘Shape-focus method’, which ensures the evolution of wave spectrum shape considered when wave spectrum was calibrated with measurements. The measured wave spectrum would be analysed and used to calibrate the hindcast wave model data. SWAN wave model will be employed to verify the proposed spectrum calibration method.