Nonlinear Wave Modeling
In order to study the statistical characteristics of extreme waves in coastal areas, a series of experiments are performed in a large-scale wave flume at Tainan Hydraulic Lab. (THL) in Taiwan considering long-crested irregular waves propagating over variable bathymetry (a 1:20 plane slope connecting two flat bottom sections). In addition, two advanced numerical models, based on a set of high-order Boussinesq equations and the fully nonlinear and dispersive potential flow theory respectively, are used to simulate the experiments. The distribution of extreme waves is analyzed with particular attention paid to the area around the end of the bottom transition.