Nearshore Wave Transformation
The interaction of waves with varying bathymetry and currents gives rise to interference patterns which may significantly alter the statistics of the surface elevation. Existing wave models (e.g. SWAN, WAVEWATCH) based on the action balance equation cannot represent such coherent interference since the balance is derived under the assumption that crossing components are statistically independent. This study presents an efficient approach of resolving wave interference patterns in spectral wave models (e.g., SWAN). The impact of the interference patterns on the prediction of wave statistics is demonstrated through several classical examples.