Nearshore Wave Propagation
Free surface potential flow is a longstanding physical model of the propagation of nonlinear water waves and their interactions with the coastal environment. A limitation of this formulation is that it cannot model directly wave breaking, which is an important process affecting nearshore wave propagation. In this work, two methods taking into account the effects of breaking are implemented. The wave equations are modified by introducing dissipative terms that act on breaking waves. Comparisons with experimental measurements are shown for the case of a barred and a mildly inclined beach, demonstrating the agreement of the two techniques with the measurements.