Wave Measurements

Oral

1070 - A Simple And Accurate Nonlinear Method For Recovering The Surface Wave Elevation From Pressure Measurements

Presenting Author(s)

• PB

  Philippe Bonneton

  Director of research
  Cnrs - Bordeaux University

Additional Author #1(s)

• DL

  David Lannes

Additional Author #2(s)

• KM

  Kevin Martins

Additional Author #3(s)

• HM

  Hervé Michallet

Additional Author #4(s)

• AM

  Arthur Mouragues

We present a nonlinear formula to reconstruct, from pressure measurements, the surface elevation of nonlinear waves propagating at shallow to intermediate water depths. This novel approach is evaluated on laboratory and field data of shoaling waves near the breaking point. Unlike linear methods, the nonlinear formula is able to reproduce at the individual wave scale the peaked and skewed shape of nonlinear waves. Improvements in the frequency domain are also observed as the new method is able to accurately predict surface wave elevation spectra over four harmonics.