Transient Waves and Beaches
Edge wave can be generated by an atmospheric pressure disturbance moving along the shoreline on a sloping beach. A two-dimensional numerical model based on non-linear shallow water equations is established to study the edge wave packets evolution in coastal ocean. In light of the analytical solutions by Greenspan, some dominant factors are discussed, such as disturbance spatial size, translation speed, its location and the slope inclination, that influence the generation conditions and evolution process of edge waves. The results indicate on what circumstances significant edge waves will be excited and how long it takes for the wave growth.