Nearshore Wave Propagation

Oral

1016 - Undular Bore Development Over A Laboratory Fringing Reef

Presenting Author(s)

• MT

  Marion Tissier, PhD

  Assistant Professor
  Delft University Of Technology

Additional Author #1(s)

• JD

  Jochem Dekkers

  Delft University of Technology

Additional Author #2(s)

• AR

  Ad Reniers

  Delft University of Technology

Additional Author #3(s)

• SP

  Stuart Pearson

  Delft University of Technology

Additional Author #4(s)

• Av

  Ap van Dongeren

  Deltares

Several field studies have reported the development of undular bores over fringing coral reefs, but the consequences of this transformation in terms of reef hydrodynamics have never been studied. We present here a new laboratory experiment designed to investigate the transformation of swell and infragravity waves into undular bores over an idealised reef profile. We show that the development of the undulations leads to significant changes in the spectral energy distribution (energy transfer from low to high frequencies) and shoreline motion.