Protected Shoreline Changes
Oral
Iain Fairley, PhD
Research associate
Swansea University
Jose Horrillo-Caraballo, PhD
Research Officer
Swansea University
Dominic Reeve
Swansea University
Harshinie Karunarathna
Swansea University
Ian Masters
Swansea University
As anthropogenic use of the coastal zone diversifies, the morphodynamics of geologically controlled, mixed sediment beaches are becoming more important. Historically, such beaches have received less attention than unconstrained homogeneous sediment beaches. Geological constraints can act to modulate wave conditions, steer nearshore currents and alter beachface permeability, Here, the morphodynamics of one such beach is considered through monthly surveys over one year. Use of a terrestrial laser scanner allows very high resolution topographic measurements and enables consideration of complex change. Embayment rotation processes dominate in the upper intertidal. Elsewhere, increased beach variability is noticed in proximity to exposed bedrock.