Sand Bar Movement

Oral

1179 - Medium-Term Variation Of Bar Movement And Its Linkage To Wave Climate

Presenting Author(s)

• 

  Dilan Rathnayaka

  Master Student
  The University of Tokyo

Additional Author #1(s)

• YK

  Yoshiaki Kuriyama

  Director General
  Port and Airport Research Institute

Additional Author #2(s)

• YT

  Yoshimitsu Tajima

  professor
  The University of Tokyo

Medium-term variations of bar position, bar migration rate and their linkages with the wave climate were investigated using Complex Empirical Orthogonal Function (CEOF) analysis, cross spectral analysis and the beach profile data obtained almost for 28 years at Hasaki coast of eastern Japan. Temporal variation of phase of the elevation change (φ_1 (t)) obtained from CEOF analysis had a strong correlation with the bar crest variation and thus d(φ_1/2π)/dt considered as a good representative of the bar migration rate. Cross spectral analysis results show a high coherence between short period components of Hs and bar migration rate.