Wave Breaking
Oral
Sergey Kuznetsov, Doctor of sciences
Principal Research Scientist
Shirshov Institute of Oceanology
Yana Saprykina, PhD
Senior Researcher
Shirshov Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Sciences
Depth-induced wave breaking criteria widely used in different models based on linear dependence between wave height and water depth at breaking point h/H=0.8. But many experimental data testify the wide range of h/H: from 0.4 up to 1.2. To explain these variations the dependence on bottom slope and wave steepness was suggested previously. We suppose that the variations of h/H and type of wave breaking can be explained by the difference of amplitude-phase-frequency structure of waves arising due to dependencies of nonlinear wave transformation process on initial wave parameters and testify it on base of field and laboratory experiments.