Beach Profile Evolution
Oral
Yana Saprykina, PhD
Senior Researcher
Shirshov Institute of Oceanology of Russian Academy of Sciences
Olga Kuznetsova
Shirshov Institute of Oceanology
On the base of data of field experiment the influence of main wave parameters and the processes of wave transformations on the dynamics of underwater beach profile during several storms was investigated.
It was revealed that the main waves parameters responsible for the sediment transport and coastline movement are the significant wave height, spectral peak period, mean spectral period and wave steepness. Dynamics of underwater beach profile strongly depends on wave breaking process, especially, on type of wave breaking, and on scenario of non-linear wave transformation.