Sandspit, Ridges, and Protrusion
Shoreface-connected ridges are series of ridges and troughs obliquely oriented towards the shore in the inner-continental shelf. The long-term historic shoreline record of Fire Island shows persistent undulations in shoreline shape at an alongshore scale similar to the alongshore scale of a prominent set of ridges. A numerical model system is used for a comparable idealized bathymetry to simulate the waves and associated alongshore sediment transport driven by alongshore currents producing shoreline change. The ridge induced wave refraction creates pressure gradients driving variations in the alongshore current leading to the shoreline change on the same alongshore scale as the ridges.